One in all this yr’s most enjoyable Paris Trend Week exhibits befell inside a dimly lit membership within the coronary heart of Pigalle. Earlier this month, the label Pressiat confirmed its spring 2022 assortment—towering fashions, performers, and artists walked via flashing strobe lights in clothes that resembled Victorian Goth armor from the long run: raw-edge blazers, off-kilter kilts in neon pink, puff sleeves with layered leather-based, and draped robes. Given the aesthetic and the placement, it’s no marvel the designer runs in the identical circles as Goth icon Michèle Lamy, who knew him from Manko Membership, a Parisian cabaret that closed its doorways in 2019.
Pressiat, which is now solely in its second season, was based by Vincent Garnier Pressiat, who wished to place gender fluidity on the coronary heart of the label. “I don’t desire a garment to outline a style, I would like it to be a unit and if we wish to put on it, it’s fairly doable,” he says. “I like the concept femininity will be proven in males and vice versa. Clothes is an expression of oneself—we shouldn’t be blocked as a result of clothes defines a style. All my garments are designed for all genders.”
For the spring 2022 present, which befell at Le Rouge membership—an area embellished by Baroque turrets and spiral columns—Pressiat gleaned inspiration from gypsies throughout a number of communities, freedom and journey, and Stevie Nicks throughout her Fleetwood Mac period. References to glam rock, Mick Jagger, and the band The New York Dolls have been additionally peppered all through the gathering within the type of draped, outsized shapes, leotards, bell bottoms, and naturally, sequins.
Pressiat graduated from the Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne, and labored at John Galliano, Maison Margiela, Saint Laurent, and Balmain, earlier than launching his personal home. The designer says he desires to make clothes for “Delicate males who want to present the a part of femininity in them, in addition to ladies with a conqueror look.”
“At Margiela, the affect of element and the historical past of clothes impressed me me,” he says, detailing what he discovered at a few of the most prevalent vogue homes in Paris. “At Saint Laurent, a way of Parisian magnificence, and at Balmain, quantity and ornamentation in addition to the industrial facet of the clothes.”
There’s no denying the rise of gender fluidity in vogue, however within the highest echelons of the style world, it could be seen lower than it’s on the streets. Out of all of the exhibits in Paris throughout vogue week, there have been solely a handful of labels—Vivienne Westwood and Raf Simons amongst them—that experimented with blurred gender strains for spring 2022. That’s a part of what makes Pressiat so intriguing: by mixing conventional codes of the Victorian period and people of the ‘70s, each of which have been eras of deeply hyper-gendered kinds, he’s recontextualizing historic silhouettes into immediately’s excessive vogue society.
Sculptural leather-based blazers give the shoulders a completely new kind, for instance, whereas corsets contort the wearer’s form into a glance many have turn out to be eminently conversant in, because the corset model skyrockets into ubiquity. “The Victorian period is a supply of limitless magnificence, it conjures up me lots,” Pressiat provides. “Whether or not it’s for males or ladies. For this season, that’s lots to hold over into the props and austerity that you will discover throughout that point.”
Some staples of Pressiat embody gossamer skinny “lingerie” tees with angular hook and eye closures jutting down the entrance; corseted, sharp-shouldered skimpy swimsuit jackets; leather-based trousers with corset-tie closures all through the legs, and stiff leather-based vests with level shoulders, dubbed the “evil gilet.” If these names spark pleasure inside you, that’s intentional. “I would love individuals to retain eccentric magnificence with a contact of humor and really feel robust and assured,” he says. “I like the concept which you can really feel like armor in my garments, that you’re untouchable, however delicate.”