For its newest season, Style Week Istanbul returns with a hybrid artistic showcase of Turkish expertise from October 12 to 17, 2021. A curated expertise operating between October 13 to 17 mixes the work of Turkey’s artists, from photographers and designers to efficiency artists and actors, conceptualised throughout two efficiency areas: the private and non-private.
The multidisciplinary exhibition revolves across the theme Istanbul State of Thoughts, by means of which occasion organisers — Istanbul Attire Exporters Affiliation, or İHKİB, Turkish Style Designers’ Affiliation (MTD) and Istanbul Style Academy (IMA) — sought to have a good time the multicultural metropolis and its artwork scene, united because the world strikes right into a post-pandemic actuality.
The immersive expertise engages viewers in performances by artists wearing Turkish designs, interacting straight with scenes unfolding round them in road settings to non-public flats. For these unable to expertise the occasions in-person, nearly all of trend exhibits throughout the curation have been additionally digitally streamed between 12 to fifteen October and might be watched on the Style Week Istanbul’s homepage.
To enrich the hybrid occasion of Turkish expertise, London-based filmmaker and ShowStudio alumna, Marie Schuller, additionally shot and directed a brief characteristic movie, streamed between October 12 to fifteen. Carrying clothes from showcasing designers’ collections, actors transfer from the streets into flats to parallel the exhibition’s give attention to private and non-private areas. You may watch the video beneath.
Now, BoF sits down with 10 of Turkey’s main and rising design expertise to be taught extra in regards to the hybrid occasion, their digital providing and hopes for a post-pandemic period.
A founding member of Style Designers Affiliation Turkey that created Style Week Istanbul, Kaprol launched her eponymous model in 1998. The model opened its first retailer in 2007 and has proven at Paris Style Week on the official calendar. Since their first digital present in 2015, Arzu Kaprol has leveraged VR and hologram expertise, and created “good” jackets responding to local weather adjustments.
“We’re approaching a brand new way of thinking after the pandemic, which is extra inclusive than unique. We’re welcoming a brand new, accountable perspective. With this mindset, we seemed into our native sources [and] created a set with Turkish artisans utilizing conventional strategies. We stopped importing supplies and created a set supporting hidden and lengthy forgotten traditions of Anatolian tradition. […] We created a sub-brand technique by specializing in particular merchandise like beachwear and kaftans.”
With the pandemic providing a brand new slate of challenges for designers, Kaprol has positioned an emphasis on the “energy of collaborations.” Trying to help her contemporaries, the model now carries different designers’ merchandise of their new retailer that opened throughout pandemic.
Selen Akyüz graduated from Istanbul Style Academy in 2014 earlier than relocating to Milan to review an MA in menswear design at İstituto Marangoni. After working for menswear manufacturers in Milan, comparable to Ermenegildo Zegna and Costume Nationwide, she returned to Turkey and launched her eponymous menswear model in 2018 — and launched her first womenswear designs this season.
The designer leaned closely into digital this season, leveraging 3D design and their e-commerce enterprise, in addition to the hybridised FWI occasion. As a substitute of a runway present this season, “we shall be underneath an environment, the place all the opposite artwork disciplines firm to designer’s collections. It’ll be stuffed with expertise for the viewers,” Akyüz informed BoF, whose SS22 assortment shall be accompanied by music from electropop duo Lonasona to assist “convey the spirit of the gathering to the viewers.”
She provides: “My future intention is to make my model 100% sustainable, through the use of all recycled, all organic-raw supplies, to chop the waste of water within the manufacturing and help native, small corporations to provide probably the most priceless, sturdy and certified trend clothes.”
Designer Mehtap Elaidi moved into trend to launch her namesake womenswear model after initially working in marine insurance coverage. As we speak, a minimum of 60 % of the model’s collections use natural or sustainable materials and is offered by means of shops in Istanbul, an e-commerce website and worldwide stockists, together with Harvey Nichols.
“We at the moment are designing with the ME girl in thoughts as a substitute of with/for our wholesale companions. We then search for and join with retailers which are a great match for the ME girl in our minds, in order that the partnership might be stronger and extra sustainable,” Elaidi informed BoF. Putting extra emphasis on their direct-to-consumer platforms to “straight work together with the ME girls” by means of their web site and flagship retailer in Istanbul, Elaidi stated they plan to “return to internet hosting totally different occasions at our retailer to supply the ME girls.”
The model is inserting a much bigger give attention to trend movies as a substitute of making runway exhibits to succeed in a wider viewers, collaborating with Turkish administrators and singer/songwriters for his or her quick movies. These collaborative efforts lengthen to collections, working with women-owned Turkish manufacturers or corporations yearly — together with this season’s beachwear capsule assortment with the Istanbul-based sample design studio LAR.
Karma by İMA
The Karma collective represents rising expertise from the Istanbul Moda Academy — a trend college established in 2007 providing levels in Style Design, Know-how and Product Growth, Style Administration and Style Communication and Media.
This season, the Karma designers are Essin Baris, Ezgi Karayel and Senem Kula.
As part of the subsequent era of design expertise popping out of Turkey, Kula has made a dedication to sustainability of their work, having labored with sustainable textiles since 2016. “As a designer, I’ll proceed to work on a unique artistic subject of sustainability every time in my work,” stated Kula. “Istanbul Style Week is a path that many designers have dug since its first day. Now I’m strolling this path too, and I hope I’ll proceed to dig new paths for the designers who will come after me.”
Based in 2016 by designer Şebnem Günay, SBNM presents athleisure collections with a retro streetwear aesthetic for girls and kids, offered direct-to-consumer by means of its e-commerce website.
“SBNM began as, and nonetheless is, a digital label,” Şebnem Günay informed BoF. “To start with, being primarily based on-line gave us the possibility to create a powerful picture and ship SBNM worldwide with out going by means of large productions and unpaid deliveries to shops.”
Alongside working with 4 PR and digital companies globally to showcase their work, the model is utilizing “predictive information analytics to know buyer habits and desires, which is built-in with our web site,” says Günay. “As we’re nonetheless experiencing and adapting to the brand new period of change, we’re planning to focus on a extra modern youth profile. We intention to be part of this revolution.”
Şansım Adalı, Sudi Etuz
Şansım Adalı studied in Brussels earlier than launching Sudi Etuz, which now contains each bodily and digital shops. The designer champions a digital-first strategy, utilizing for years a digital actuality mannequin, digital artists and AI engineers. Quickly, Sudi Etuz will launch an NFT capsule assortment.
Of their final two seasons, Sudi Etuz has turned “utterly digital to maintain up with the velocity of the world,” designer Şansım Adalı informed BoF. “We’re imagining the collections with the way it’s going to be offered — how we are going to shoot the movie. The gathering shapes from the [presentation] concept, then we begin making the design course of and after, material choices.”
This season, influenced by historic and archaeological space Anavarza in Adana, Turkey, the model has mixed historical mythology with a digital online game aesthetic, shot from the attitude of the primary character. “We first make our 3D drawings of the items earlier than samples. We now have a staff of digital artists and AI engineers making digital characters, clothes and AI-educated lip-syncs for our digital people.”
“For our trend design department, as we make our items in digital, it offers an ease to see the total outfit earlier than making the pattern,” provides Adalı. “After all, with this, we will thoughts our carbon footprints as we don’t destroy any material for the samples of collections. We’re are additionally making an NFT capsule assortment with our digital clothes.”
Ece and Ayse Ege, Cube Kayek
Sisters Ece and Ayse Ege launched their award-winning model Cube Kayek in 1992. Primarily based in Paris, the label grew to become a part of the Fédération Française de la Couture in 1994. The label counts 90 international stockists, its personal e-commerce website and a newly opened Parisian boutique, but manufacturing stays of their Istanbul atelier.
“For the time being, we’re closely investing in retail as a result of we wish to attain our clients straight for a change. That is the primary time we’re specializing in making a procuring expertise distinctive to our model,” stated the sister founders, who opened their Parisian flagship retailer just a few months earlier than the pandemic hit Europe. Customers can reserve gadgets on-line to attempt on within the boutique, alongside a method consultancy and made-to-measure companies.
“As for wholesale, we proceed to work on capsule collections that cater to our choose companions world wide primarily based on their wants,” together with a pop-up retailer on the Ritz Paris for the vacation season and a Christmas assortment in collaboration with French retailer La Redoute.
Having leveraged trend movies to preview collections since 2013, Cube Kayek usually collaborates with award-winning filmmaker Marie Schuller — who created FWI’s cross-disciplinary movie this season. “Due to the amplifying energy of digital media, now we attain a wider viewers than we ever dreamed of after we first began providing our movies on-line. This has been an amazing observe for us to seek out new methods of interesting to the brand new era of digital native customers as nicely.”
Yakup Biçer, Y Plus
With 30 years’ expertise as a artistic director in Turkey, Yakup Biçer’s genderless label Y PLUS obtained its worldwide debut at London Style Week in February 2020.
“Our model identification this season performs with colors and patterns whereas preserving one in all its core parts: genderlessness. With the ability to specific gender neutrality through the use of colors freely has been the most important change for the reason that delivery of the model,” Biçer informed BoF.
Whereas the designer says the pandemic has “taught us many issues,” like main a slower, extra sustainable life, Biçer additionally cites the significance of “collaboration and cooperation of trend homes, which we now have seen within the latest trend weeks. […] Collaborating with one other model is amongst my post-pandemic targets.”
After finishing a level in enterprise and trend design at Istanbul La Salle Worldwide Academy, Ceren Ocak joined the design staff of Turkish designer Zeki Triko till 2013, when she left to design her personal collections. Ocak’s label is on the market on the model’s showroom and Turkish clothes retailer Gizia Gate.
“The truth that assortment shows weren’t bodily realised [during the pandemic] made me lean to digital media extra, leveraging social media, digital exhibitions and on-line gross sales platforms to satisfy with consumers,” Ocak informed BoF.
“I’m seeking to the longer term with hope,” says the designer. “I imagine that good days are coming. That was what I wished to inform in my SS22 assortment. A extra vibrant, extra dynamic life. For my model, I intend to participate in areas the place I can bodily show my merchandise and present my product high quality and craftsmanship extra.”
New Gen by İMA
New Gen designers are chosen from trend college students and graduates of the main Turkish trend college, Istanbul Style Academy, funded by Istanbul Attire Exporters Affiliation İHKİB, to showcase and help up-and-coming younger designers.
This 12 months, trend graduates Lidya Zenginel, Nadin Altıparmak, Şeyma Hamamcı, Nazlıcan Türker, Öykü Ece Uza, Ercan Tenekecioğlu, Mirey Demirci and Berfin Özgür are shortlisted for the New Gen award and opened the season’s showcase.
This can be a sponsored characteristic paid for by FWI as a part of a BoF partnership.